Dior, Designer of the dream
Jean Cocteau once said of Dior that he was "This light genius peculiar to our time, whose magic name combines God and gold" (Ce génie léger propre à notre temps dont le nom magique combine Dieu et or). To celebrate the seventieth anniversary of the house of 30 Ave. Montaigne, the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris has decided to devote a magnificent retrospective. The exhibition begins with the astonishing journey of a simple, unadorned man who suffers ruin and sickness before knowing fame. We discover Christian Dior; art lover and gallerist, before seeing his life switch on February 12, 1947, the date of his first fashion show. "Such a New Look," says a famed editor of Harper's Bazaar. "Unknown on the 12th and celebrates the 13th", according to Françoise Giroud. The designer did not know it yet, but he invented the wardrobe of the coming decade. Over the halls, tailor-made bars in shantung, petal skirts that stretch out in petals and ball gowns intermingle in a scent of scandal. It takes almost 14 meters of fabric to make the pleating of the famous corolla dress. But France, in the aftermath of the war, is bloodless. The population jazes, but high society - like the Princess Margaret - is embroiled in these ostentatious creations. Alas, the couturier died prematurely in 1957. Sixty years after his death, six renowned designers succeeded him: Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferre, John Galliano, Raf Simons, and most recently Maria Grazia Chiuri. Spread over more than 3,000 square meters, the museum pays tribute to their works that have prolonged the life of Mr. Dior.
Dior, Designer of the dream. Until January 7, 2018 at the Museum of Decorative Arts. 107, rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris.
Dalida, the Silhouette of the star
Dalida is a name which is amongst the most famous in French music, and in French fashion. Beautiful, elegant and eccentric, she dared to absolutely everything. From Jacques Estérel's 1950s New Look dresses to Balmain seventies' chasuble dresses, sober and chic to Loris Azarro, flamboyant in glitter and disco costumes by Michel Fresnay in the 1980s, and classic and timeless in Yves Saint Laurent's left bank. As Jean-Claude Jitrois one quipped, "dressing Dalida is like dressing the stars for the Cannes Film Festival". The exhibited outfits, bequeathed to the Galliera Palace by Dalida's brother Orlando, reflect the decades past. The wardrobe made of city dresses and stage costumes opens with a red velvet dress curtain created by Jean Dessès in 1958, for her first concert at the head of poster in Bobino. Beside the designer dresses, the singer has many unworn day dresses that testify to her very fashionable taste. One of the flagship pieces of the collection: the majestic journaling cape in pleated horsehair, decorated with fringes and embroidered with sequins, rhinestones and ostrich feathers, worn during a concert in 1980.
Dalida, A city wardrobe at the scene. Until August 13, 2017 at the Palais Galliera. Fashion Museum of the city of Paris. 10, avenue Pierre-Ier-de-Serbie, 75116 Paris.
Chloé, in the eyes of Guy Bourdin
In the heart of the 8th arrondissement, on rue de la Baume, at number 28, Maison Chloé has just opened. Spread over five floors, the cultural space conceived as a museum is entirely dedicated to the heritage of the label founded by Gaby Aghion in 1952. The first exhibition pays tribute to Guy Bourdin. Why? Because he is the photographer to have immortalized the greatest number of creations of Chloé. Between large-format prints from Vogue magazine archives and original pieces, mainly designed by Karl Lagerfeld, who was artistic director from 1966 to 1985, the exhibition revives the brilliance of Parisian woman, as could only be conceived by Chloé.
Femininities - Guy Bourdin. Until September 6th at Maison Chloé. 28, rue de la Baume, 75008 Paris. From July 4th to September 6th. Appointment only.
Pre-registration on www.chloe.com/bourdin